HA is famous for its crazy water holding capacity as it can bind up to 1000 times its own weight in water. They observed 309 children and concluded that both ointments were similarly effective but the one with Hamamelis was even better tolerated (98.2% vs. 92.3% tolerated well the ointments in the two groups). Once inside the skin, it hydrates, but not from the outside - putting pure water on the skin (hello long baths!) Try it at your own risk. Follow us on our new Insta page » Dermadoctor. or Just want to chat? A form of vitamin E that works as an antioxidant. Like most eye creams, Dermadoctor Kakadu C Eye Souffle includes caffeine due to the ability of caffeine to reduce swelling and possibly minimize the appearance of dark circles. This one is the so-called esterified version. DERMAdoctor Kakadu C 20% Vitamin C … A vegetable origin (coconut or palm kernel oil and glucose) cleansing agent with great foaming abilities. Moreover,  derivatives not only have to be absorbed into the skin, they also have to be converted into pure AA. Gallyl Glucoside is a glycosylated form of gallic acid (i.e. The extract coming from the juice containing leaves of the Aloe vera plant. It’s one of those little helper ingredients that makes sure the product stays the same over time. Thanks. According to famous dermatologist, Leslie Baumann while tocopheryl acetate is more stable and has a longer shelf life, it’s also more poorly absorbed by the skin and may not have the same awesome photoprotective effects as pure Vit E. It's an ester form of vitamin A (retinol + palmitic acid) that belongs to the "retinoid family". The conversion is a 3 step one and looks like this: retinyl palmitate --> retinol -- > retinaldehyde --> all-trans-retinoic acid. It also helps to thicken up products and give them a bit more slip. is drying. We will talk here about the latter two and see why we might want to smear it all over ourselves. We have better news about the other two things: in-vitro data shows that MAP can boost collagen synthesis similar to AA (though in the case of AA it's proven in-vivo) and even better, MAP is proven to work as a skin brightener in-vivo (on real people). Ingredients. According to the manufacturer, it's a highly water soluble, stabilized and purified form that's easier to formulate but it keeps the great antioxidant and anti-inflammatory benefits of  regular EGCG. Unlike many plant oils that mostly contain unsaturated fatty acids (fatty acids with double bonds and kinky structure such as linoleic or oleic), coconut oil is mostly saturated (fatty acids with single bonds only) and its most important fatty acid is Lauric Acid (about 50%). Overall, coconut oil is definitely a goodie for the hair and dry skin. Also well-known vasoconstrictor and promotes skin healing. One more thing: the water used in cosmetics is purified and deionized (it means that almost all of the mineral ions inside it is removed). It is known for its antioxidant and soothing properties and usually comes to the formula combined with other plant-derived glucosides. Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Extract, Terminalia Ferdinandiana (Kakadu Plum) Fruit Extract, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Extract, juice containing leaves of the Aloe vera plant, Read all the geeky details about Glycerin here >>, Read all the geeky details about Lactic Acid here >>, 14% added alcohol according to the USP specifications, alcohol is, at best drying, and at worst skin-damaging, click here and read our detailed description on glycolic acid, You can read all about the pure form here, As we wrote in our lengthy retinol description, summarized the research available about retinyl palmitate here, A natural moisturizer that’s also in our skin, A super common, safe, effective and cheap molecule used for more than 50 years, Not only a simple moisturizer but knows much more: keeps the skin lipids between our skin cells in a healthy (liquid crystal) state, protects against irritation, helps to restore barrier, Effective from as low as 3% with even more benefits at higher concentrations up to 20-40% (around 10% is a good usability-effectiveness sweet spot), High-glycerin moisturizers are awesome for treating severely dry skin, It’s the second most researched AHA after glycolic acid, It gently lifts off dead skin cells to reveal newer, fresher, smoother skin, It also has amazing skin hydrating properties, In higher concentration (10% and up) it improves skin firmness, thickness and wrinkles, Choose a product where you know the concentration and pH value because these two greatly influence effectiveness, Don’t forget to use your sunscreen (in any case but especially so next to an AHA product). It's a sweet tasting sugar substitute that helps your skin to hold onto water when used in cosmetic products. DERMAdoctor Kakadu C serum: rated 4 out of 5 on MakeupAlley. “Find the full list of ingredients of Dermadoctor Kakadu C Amethyst Clay Detox Mask here! What is not so good is that, as the great review study about vitamin C derivatives in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology writes, MAP is "at very best, poorly absorbed in comparison to AA.". The community where skincare The TL; DR version of HA is that it's a huge polymer (big molecule from repeated subunits) found in the skin that acts as a sponge helping the skin to hold onto water, being plump and elastic. need not worry. The question is if it is good or bad for acne-prone skin. The ingredients in Derma Doctor Kakadu Vitamin C Serum are: 20% stabilized Vitamin C- It is the chief ingredient bestowed the said objectives of Derma Doctor Kakadu Vitamin C Serum. As cosmetic chemist kindofstephen writes on reddit  "sodium hyaluronate disassociates into hyaluronic acid molecule and a sodium atom in solution". Witch hazel is a smallish tree (up to 5m) that's native to North-America, has nice yellow flowers and is similar to the hazelnut bush (hence the name). We think that the truth lies somewhere in the middle, and we agree with Dr. Baumann's conclusion: "sufficient evidence to establish a causal link between RP and skin cancer has not been produced. Want to see a feature? As we wrote in our lengthy retinol description the problem is that the conversion is not terribly effective. An exfoliant, that can gently lift off the dead skin cells of your skin and make it more smooth and fresh. Its anti-aging effects are quite questionable as well as its behavior in the presence of UVA light. A bioengineered version of superstar green tea polyphenol, EGCG. It's also mild to the skin and readily biodegradable. “Find the full list of ingredients of Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad With Ferulic Acid & Vitamin E here! It’s mainly a solvent for ingredients that do not like to dissolve in oils but rather in water. A high potency, lightweight serum that provides an antiaging concentrate of 20 percent stabilized vitamin C enriched with kakadu … Retinyl palmitate will be then little Prince George, quite far (3 steps) away from the throne. Find out if the Dermadoctor Kakadu C 20% Vitamin C Serum with Ferulic Acid & Vitamin E is good for you! This might be the case if you are dealing with an alcoholic witch hazel bark water or extract, but looking at CosIng (the official INCI name listing of the EU), witch hazel bark water or witch hazel bark extract are not listed ingredients. We don't have description for this ingredient yet. Kakadu C. $74.00. Made with from around the world. Browse products by MAP does solve the stability problem: it's stable up to pH 7, so far so good. So now you know that pure vitamin C (aka ascorbic acid, AA) is really unstable and hard to formulate so the cosmetics industry is coming up with a bunch of derivatives to solve the problem and Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (or MAP) is one of them. No color change or anything like that. 4.2 out of 5 stars 22 ratings. Most probably though, you are getting a goody with nice astringent, soothing, antibacterial, and even antioxidant properties. Used alone, it can make the formula sticky and it is a good team player so it is usually combined with other thickeners and so-called rheology modifiers (helper ingredients that adjust the flow and thus the feel of the formula). Witch Hazel also contains tiny amounts of the essential oil and fragrance component eugenol, but the amount is so small that it's probably not significant for the skin. or can’t find what you’re looking for? Even if it does, we don't know how good the conversion rate is (but to be fair the same is true for all other derivatives). It’s often used together with ethylhexylglycerin as it nicely improves the preservative activity of phenoxyethanol. It’s not something new: it was introduced around 1950 and today it can be used up to 1% worldwide. I just received my Dermadoctor Kakadu C Serum a few days ago. Tretinoin, aka retinoic acid, is the active ingredient our skin cells can understand and retinyl palmitate (RP) has to be converted by our metabolic machinery to actually do something. 30 count. Featured Ingredients . A great way to rid your skin of city grime before bed. The retinoid family is pretty much the royal family of skincare, with the queen being the FDA-approved anti-aging ingredient tretinoin. Get in touch! If you have problems with damaged hair, split ends, coconut oil is worth trying as a pre- or/and post-wash treatment. They are good friends because ethylhexylglycerin can boost the effectiveness of phenoxyethanol (and other preservatives) and as an added bonus it feels nice on the skin too. Read reviews, see the full ingredient list and find out if the notable ingredients are good or bad … If HA does not tell you anything we have a super detailed, geeky explanation about it here. It’s approved by Ecocert and also used in the food industry (E415). Dermadoctor Kakadu C Serum ingredients explained: Products Ingredients Decode INCI Login Register. As well as delivering a thorough cleanse, it helps repair the skin from sun damage with Vitamin C, whilst Vitamin A and AHAs work on firming and exfoliating. It can bind huge amounts of water and it's pretty much the current IT-moisturizer. There is definitely some craze going on for coconut oil both in the healthy eating space (often claimed to be the healthiest oil to cook with but this is a topic for another site) and in the skin and hair care space. The saturated nature of coconut oil also means that it is a heavy-duty-oil ideal for dry skin types. Another study found that coconut oil is more effective than mineral oil in treating mild to moderate atopic dermatitis (aka eczema) in children. So if you see only Witch Hazel Extract or Witch Hazel Water on the ingredient list, it's a bit hard to know what you're actually getting but we will try to summarize the possibilities to give an idea. It's one of the most commonly used thickeners and emulsion stabilizers. If the product is too runny, a little xanthan gum will make it more gel-like. Have some feedback? The leaves contain hardly any tannins (0.04%) or catechins and contain a medium amount of gallic acid (compared to the bark and twigs). attaching the sugar molecule, glucose to gallic acid) coming from oak leaves. DERMAdoctor Kakadu C 20% Vitamin C Serum, 2-Pack (2) 0.5 fl oz Serum Lightweight Anti-aging Serum Brightens, Smoothes, Softens and Firms Item 1344769. Dr. Leslie Baumann wrote a great review of the debate and summarized the research available about retinyl palmitate here. Compared to the pure form it's more stable, has longer shelf life, but it's also more poorly absorbed by the skin. A couple of other things worth mentioning: coconut oil might help with wound healing (promising animal study), it has some antifungal activity (against dermatophytes that cause the thing known as ringworm) and it also works as an insect repellent against black flies. So all in all, we think "Hamamelis Virginiana Extract" on the ingredient list is nothing to worry about. What's more, the anti-aging effectiveness is not the only questionable thing about RP. Also, it's an effective deodorant and a medium spreading emollient. We will talk here about the latter two and see why we might want to smear it all over ourselves. Dermadoctor DD Cream … So when it comes to dry skin, coconut oil is a goodie, no question there. Aqua (Water), 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Ethoxydiglycol, Glycerin, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Butylene Glycol, Citric Acid, Terminalia Ferdinandiana (Kakadu) Fruit Extract, Epigallocatechin … If you have spotted ethylhexylglycerin on the ingredient list, most probably you will see there also the current IT-preservative, phenoxyethanol. Tapioca Pure Starch, Aqua (Water), Sodium Bicarbonate, Ascorbic Acid, Silica, Hydroxyapatite, Niacinamide, Panthenol, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Calcium PCA, Magnesium PCA, Manganese PCA, Zinc PCA, Biotin, Calcium Carbonate… Bottom line: If you wanna get serious about retinoids, RP is not your ingredient (retinol or tretinoin is!). Well-known skin care expert, Paula Begoun rates witch hazel as poor and says,  "depending on the form of witch hazel, you’re exposing your skin either to a sensitizing amount of alcohol or to tannins, or both." Kakadu Plums- thought to be one of the most concentrated natural sources of Vitamin C on earth, containing on average 55x the Vitamin C of Florida oranges; Vitamin C- potent … Nor, I’m afraid, are there any good reasons to recommend the use of RP". Dermadoctor Kakadu C Brightening Daily Cleanser. The good news is that in-vitro data shows that MAP does convert, but the bad news is we do not really know if the same is true on real, living human skin. Luckily, there are also alcohol-free distillates, so if you prefer no alcohol check the ingredient list carefully. Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Aqua (Water), Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, Lauryl Glucoside, Glycerin, Lactic Acid, Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Extract, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol, Sorbitol, Alcohol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Malic Acid, Tocopheryl Acetate, Retinyl Palmitate, Sodium Phytate, Alcohol Denat., Terminalia Ferdinandiana (Kakadu Plum) Fruit Extract… All in all, Witch Hazel Extract is a sloppy INCI name (btw, not in the CosIng listing), and you do not really know what you're getting. While some claim that it worked wonders on their acne others say that it gave them serious blackheads and zits. It's claimed to be a stabilized and purified form that keeps the great antioxidant and anti-inflammatory benefits of regular EGCG. Kakadu C 20% Vitamin C Serum with Ferulic Acid & Vitamin E (1 fl oz.) Great natural moisturizer and skin-identical ingredient that plays an important role in skin hydration and general skin health. But … Read reviews, see the full ingredient list and find out if the notable ingredients are good or bad for your … Dermadoctor Kakadu C Brightening Daily Cleanser is free from SkinCarisma flagged Allergens Understanding the Identified Contact Allergens The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) has identified and established 26 cosmetic ingredients … Coconut oil melts around 25 °C so it is solid in the tub but melts on contact with the skin. It’s also allergy-tested and is hypoallergenic, so sensitive souls. Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad with Ferulic Acid & Vitamin E. Kakadu C. $78.00. Malic acid comes from apple and is an AHA. See 6 member reviews and photos. Find helpful customer reviews and review ratings for DERMAdoctor Kakadu C 20% Vitamin C Serum with Ferulic Acid & Vitamin E, 1 fl oz at Amazon.com. Acne; Anti-aging; Dark Spots/Uneven; Dry Skin; Eczema; Fine Lines/Wrinkles; Pores; Hyperhidrosis; Keratosis Pilaris; Oily Skin; Rosacea; Sensitive Skin; Ingredients… Witch Hazel Extracts can also be made in different ways: browsing Ulprospector, we could find hydroglycolic, hydroalcoholic and glicerine/water based extracts. Read what notable effects these ingredients have with Skincarisma” A form of skincare superstar, Vitamin C - it has proven skin-brightening abilities (in-vivo) and it might be able to boost collagen production as well (in-vitro). Regarding the three magic abilities of pure vitamin C (antioxidant, collagen booster, skin brightener), there is no published data about MAP's antioxidant or photoprotection capabilities. Read what notable effects these ingredients have with Skincarisma” ... Community Collections with "Dermadoctor Kakadu C … enthuasists come make better decisions. High Potency Evening Oil 20% Vitamin C Ester, Ferulic Acid & Vitamin E Esters. If you wanna become a real HA-and-the-skin expert you can read way more about the topic at hyaluronic acid (including penetration-questions, differences between high and low molecular weight versions and a bunch of references to scientific literature). A form of skincare superstar, Vitamin C. If you do not know, what the big deal about Vitamin C is, click here and read all about it, we will wait here for you. It also exibits questionable behaviour in the presence of UV light and was the center of a debate between the non-profit group, EWG (whose intentions are no doubt good, but its credibility is often questioned by scientists) and a group of scientists and dermatologists lead by Steven Q. Wang, MD,  director of dermatologic surgery at Memorial-Sloan Kettering Cancer Centre. Labmuffin has an awesome blogpost explaining in more detail why coconut oil is good for your hair. It's  Ecocert approved. (We also checked Prospector for sodium hyaluronate versions actually used in cosmetic products and found that the most common molecular weight was 1.5-1.8 million Da that absolutely counts as high molecular weight). Witch Hazel Distillate contains 14% added alcohol according to the USP specifications  and alcohol is, at best drying, and at worst skin-damaging. DERMAdoctor Kakadu C 20% Serum | Active Ingredients DERMAdoctor Kakadu 20% serum uses 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid as a stable alternative. Read honest and unbiased product reviews from our … Pretty much the current IT-preservative. Spotted a bug? In spite of this, if you search for "hyaluronic acid vs sodium hyaluronate" you will find on multiple places that sodium hyaluronate is smaller and can penetrate the skin better. However, if you use a product that you like and it also contains RP, there is no reason to throw it away. It's also a well-known vasoconstrictor (it makes the blood vessels narrower) and promotes the healing of broken skin by tightening up the skin proteins and thus creating a protective covering. There is not much research out there about malic acid itself. It can boost the effectiveness of phenoxyethanol (and other preservatives) and as an added bonus it feels nice on the skin too. It seems that there is a study showing RP being photo protective against UVB rays but there is also a study showing RP causing DNA damage and cytotoxicity in association with UVA. Apart from the differences in active components in different parts of the Witch Hazel bush, the extraction methods also vary. It’s safe and gentle, but even more importantly, it’s not a feared-by-everyone-mostly-without-scientific-reason paraben. The most common skincare ingredient of all. Normal (well kind of - it's purified and deionized) water. It’s the - sodium form - cousin of the famous NMF, hyaluronic acid (HA). … A double-blind research confirmed that extra virgin coconut oil is as effective in treating xerosis (aka very dry skin) as mineral oil. I got the 2 bottle pkg from Costco. Kakadu Plums- thought to be one of the most concentrated natural sources of Vitamin C on earth, containing on average 55x the Vitamin C of Florida oranges; Vitamin C- potent antioxidant and helps protect skin from environmental aggressors by fighting free radical damage; The DERMAdoctor … An ester form of vitamin A (retinol + palmitic acid) that is pretty much the least effective member of the retinoid family. Brand: doctorRMA. Bottom line: when it comes to vitamin C derivatives, MAP is definitely an option. As for skincare, it's loaded with active components that have a bunch of magic properties, like astringent, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and anti-bacterial. 2-pack, 0.50 fl oz each. An error has occurred. Usually the main solvent in cosmetic products. Peel the difference with Kakadu C Intensive Peel Pads. If that warrants for the magic oil status it enjoys, we don't know. The complication, however, is that different extracts and distillates can be made from different parts of the plant (bark, twigs, and leaves are typically used) and different extraction methods from different parts produce different results. In higher concentration (10% and up) it can even improve skin firmness, thickness, and wrinkles. We do a Best of INCIDecoder email once a month with the most interesting products and ingredients we bump into. Available from these sellers . This hardworking cleanser is surprisingly gentle on the skin, being devoid of common 'nasties' such as soap, fragrance, parabens and sulphates. Once applied to the skin, this bio-converts to … ADAPTOGENS; AHA / BHA; ANTHOCYANINS; Ceramides; Ferulic Acid; Glycolic Acid; Hyaluronic Acid; Lactic Acid; Niacinamide / B3; Peptides; PHA; Retinol; Salicylic Acid; Vitamin C; Vitamin E Its main fatty acid, Lauric Acid has some research showing that it is a promising ingredient against evil acne-causing bacteria, P. acnes but at the same time, both Lauric Acid and coconut oil have a very high comedogenic rating (4 out of 5). Dermadoctor Kakadu C High Potency Evening Oil is free from SkinCarisma flagged Allergens Understanding the Identified Contact Allergens The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) has identified and established 26 cosmetic ingredients … Find out if the Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad With Ferulic Acid & Vitamin E is good for you! Good old water, aka H2O. The typical use level of Xantha Gum is below 1%, it is usually in the 0.1-0.5% range. The extract coming from the juice containing leaves of the Aloe vera plant with moisturizing, emollient and anti-inflammatory properties. With Hazel - loaded with active components (hamamelitannin, catechins, gallic acid) that have astringent, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant or anti-bacterial properties. A super commonly used thickener and emulsion stabilizer. So malic acid is an exfoliant, that can - just like other AHAs - gently lift off the dead skin cells of your skin and make it more smooth and fresh. Less effective than glycolic or lactic acid. Chemically, this is definitely not true, as the two forms are almost the same, both are polymers and the subunits can be repeated in both forms as much as you like. An AHA that comes from apple. Dermadoctor Kakadu C Brightening Daily Cleanser contains 28 ingredients. Lightweight Anti-aging Serum. Saturated fatty acids have a linear structure that can stack nice and tight and hence they are normally solid at room temperature. By Popular Ingredients BHA (Salicylic Acid) AHA (All Types) PHA (All Types) Niacinamide Vitamin C (All Types) Vitamin A Hyaluronic Acid Ceramides Azelaic Acid Squalane Snail Mucin Centella Asiatica & … Featured Ingredients. Kakadu C; KP Duty; Lucky Bamboo; Specialists; Urban Veil; Wrinkle Revenge; Concerns. If possible use it at night, just to be on the safe side. Dermadoctor Kakadu C Brightening Daily Cleanser ingredients explained: Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Decyl Glucoside, Glycerin, Lactic Acid, Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Extract, Sorbitol, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Hyaluronate, Malic Acid, Propyl Gallate, Aqua (Water), Gallyl Glucoside, Epigallocatechin Gallatyl Glucoside, Terminalia Ferdinandiana (Kakadu … By steps, we mean metabolic steps. Popular Ingredients, Product Ingredient Safety Breakdown (EWG Rating Ratings), Michael Todd Kaolin Clay Detoxifying Facial Mask (Normal), Triple Oxygen Radiant Protection Energizing Serum, Photo Dynamic Therapy Age Spot Eraser & Skin Brightener, Calm Cool & Corrected Anti-Redness Tranquility Cream, Calm Cool & Corrected Tranquility Cleanser, Ain't Misbehavin' Medicated Acne Control Serum, Litmus Test Glycolic Acid Facial Cleansing Gel, Ain't Misbehavin' Intensive 10% Sulfur Acne Mask & Emergency Spot Treatment, Physical Chemistry Facial Microdermabrasion + Multiacid Chemical Peel, Born To Be Mild Medicated Face & Body Cleanser, Wrinkle Revenge Rescue & Protect Facial Cream. What seems to be a true difference, though, is that the salt form is more stable, easier to formulate and cheaper so it pops up more often on the ingredient lists. It's usually a hydroglycolic extract (though  oil extract for the lipid parts also exists) that has similar moisturizing, emollient and anti-inflammatory properties as the juice itself. If these magic three letters don’t tell you anything, click here and read our detailed description on glycolic acid, the most famous AHA. Dr. Leslie Baumann in her fantastic Cosmetic Dermatology book writes that RP is topically ineffective. The first two ones were the winners while malic and citric acid were less effective. Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Extract, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer. Choose your preferred country & currency below to personalize your experience. 30 ml - 1.01 fl oz. This peel + treatment-in-1 delivers a powerful dose of Kakadu Plum, one of the richest natural Vitamin C sources …