The Journal of pathology, 229(2), 323-331. ‘Topical vitamin C protects porcine skin from ultraviolet radiation-induced damage’. This is due to the fact that vitamin C inhibits the main enzyme involved in the production of melanin, thereby decreasing melanin production [4]. Dinakar, C., Abhaypratap, V., Yearla, S.R. ‘Topical vitamin C: A useful agent for treating photoaging and other dermatologic conditions’. Can You Use Vitamin C and Retinol Together? Do you have oily acne-prone skin that can break out if you so much as sniff a new skincare product? In theory, this would mean that ROS may actually help prevent acne by preventing the overgrowth of the p-acnes bacteria. However, what I didn’t know at the time was how antioxidants, when in concentrated form can take away beneficial ROS, leading to bacterial infection. Statements made herein have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration. However, one study found that the topical application of 5% sodium-L-ascorbyl-2-phosphate, a vitamin C derivative, over 12 weeks reduced the number of acne lesions in 61-71% of subjects (observer ratings vs subject ratings), One way of achieving this is to reduce the acidity of L-ascorbic acid to a pH of less than 3.5, Vitamin C works best at a concentration of 8-20%. Science can’t explain why. (2013). Use vitamin C serums in the morning. When that balance gets disrupted, the skin gets sick. Like mentioned above, Vitamin C products can be very unstable and lose its effectiveness quickly. However, lower concentrations may be effective for inflammatory skin conditions such as acne [2]. Vitamin C can be found in a number of foods you consume on a daily basis. Photogenerated charge carriers and reactive oxygen species in ZnO/Au hybrid nanostructures with enhanced photocatalytic and antibacterial activity. Unfortunately, even with the correct application, sunscreens can only block 55% of the free radicals produced by UV exposure [1]. In fact, it may even help treat it faster! Can you recommend some good Vitamin C serums for fading acne marks? I use Cerave’s hydrating cleanser and the Hada Labo lotion. However, some research suggests that small amounts of free radicals are good for us. Niacinamide and Hyaluronic Acid Together = Super Skin Hydration. Vitamin C’s role in collagen synthesis means that it also has a more general anti-aging effect as well. You want to prevent the breakdown of existing collagen. Antimicrobial actions of reactive oxygen species. Furthermore, higher antioxidant levels in cells are associated with lower ROS levels. Skin experts break down what the adverse reactions mean, and what you can do. Too much ROS can lead to cell death and tumor formation. And yet, many of my clients with oily, acne-prone skin complain their acne got worse after introducing a Vitamin C serum into their skincare routine. When are antioxidants in concentrated form? So now it seems, from an oxidation standpoint, vitamin C serums damage the skin in two ways: The two together creates a storm that disrupts the body’s ability to maintain a healthy balance which is why vitamin C serums have destroyed so many people’s skin. Too much ROS, of course, is a bad thing, as the scholarship applicant’s research (and many others) have supported, but the regulated amount of ROS naturally produced by the body is needed to prevent bacterial, fungal and other pathogenic invasion from infecting the body. Lately my research has been focused on skin care-related biology, which means I have tunnel vision and seldom get to venture out into other areas of scientific progress. Some people do experience acne breakouts when first beginning to use a Vitamin C serum. So do antioxidants in skin care actually have any benefit? Haywood, R., Wardman, P., Sanders, R. & Linge, C. (2003). This was the first Vitamin C serum that I’ve tried and it seems to be breaking me out. And this is important in the context of skin care. Once I stopped listening to the fads and started taking a pragmatic and empirical approach to skin care, my acne disappeared and clear skin took its place. Most people … Furthermore, higher antioxidant levels in cells are associated with lower ROS levels. Last week I had the honor of sitting on a scholarship panel for the University of California, Irvine medical school. For this reason, topical application of cosmetics containing vitamin C, such as vitamin C serums, are required to maintain sufficient skin levels of vitamin C [2]. Plenty of research has demonstrated that Vitamin C has potent anti-inflammatory effects [7]. The biggest criticism regarding vitamin C serums for acne-prone skin is down to their potent antioxidant effects. et al. Therefore, I look forward to such panels because I am able to read current research as it is developing, and often this is research I would never get the chance to explore on my own time. It’s safe for most skin types. Sickness can include acne, dermatitis, folliculitis, and many others. Paiva, C. N., & Bozza, M. T. (2014). Vitamin C products can certainly cause purging - this has happened to me with some vitamin C products as well, although not DE's Day Serum in particular. Hypervitaminosis A, which results from too much vitamin A in the body, is a toxicity that can negatively impact your health. Vitamin C has potent anti-inflammatory effects, mainly due to its antioxidant activity. I knew that it was because vitamin C serums broke the skin down because they discharged ROS due to their oxygenating effect in the skin. This website is intended for informational and/or educational purposes only. Vitamin C for Acne: Why Vitamin C for Skin? He, W., Kim, H. K., Wamer, W. G., Melka, D., Callahan, J. H., & Yin, J. J. Read More. According to the U.S. National Library of Medicine, "many people over age 50 lose the ability to absorb vitamin B12 from foods," and weight-loss surgery can cause the same problem. This kind of free radical is … ROS and antioxidants have a healthy equilibrium in the body. Post Inflammatory Erythema: 12 Effective Treatment Options. ‘Antimicrobial actions of reactive oxygen species’. & Castanedo-Cazares, J. If this were true, then a potent antioxidant serum, such as a vitamin C serum, may actually make acne worse by neutralizing the ROS that are keeping the p-acnes bacteria under control. Since antioxidants, such as vitamin C, neutralize ROS, they may inhibit these protective effects and could cause an increase in the p-acnes bacteria. The addition of ferulic acid to L-ascorbic acid improves the stability of the vitamin C serum and reduces the acidity to a pH of below 3.5. Vitamin C works best at a concentration of 8-20%. Vitamin C serums are excess that you are imposing on your body and you will disrupt your skin by using them. The microbiome can get disrupted by raising skin’s pH (through use of foaming and/or alkaline cleansers), by introducing an inflammatory agent to the skin (essential oils or fragrance), by mechanically damaging the skin (such as with a scrub, microdermabrasion, dermarolling, etc), all of which is well known. They do not disrupt skin’s microbiome and do not interfere with ROS doing its job of keeping bacterial pathogens away. In fact, a number of sunscreens are formulated with antioxidants for this exact reason. However, vitamin C serums can treat existing acne breakouts by reducing redness and inflammation and improving the overall appearance of acne. However, other antioxidant serums have more evidence to back up their anti-acne effects and may be a better investment. Vitamin C has an excellent safety profile. There’s no proof that Vitamin C causes acne. It is unlikely that vitamin C serums will cause acne. (2004). Though numerous foods and supplements contain vitamin C, keep in mind that skin care products formulated with this vitamin are more likely to aid … Cells in the body seem to require a specific balance of both antioxidants and ROS in order to function optimally. However, lower concentrations may be effective for inflammatory skin conditions such as acne. There is some evidence to suggest that using a vitamin C serum may make the skin more vulnerable to bacteria. This is because there is some evidence to suggest that ROS have antimicrobial effects, However, this research is very limited and it is not known whether the p-acnes bacteria is affected by ROS-antimicrobial activity (research seems to be focussed on the, Plenty of research has demonstrated that Vitamin C has potent anti-inflammatory effects, There is relatively little research specifically investigating the effect of topical vitamin C on acne. Jaros, A., Zasada, M., Budzisz, E., Debowska, R., Gebczynska-Rzepka, M. & Rotsztejn, H. (2018). The ability of topical vitamin C to reduce inflammation and erythema suggests that it would help improve the appearance of acne. Galadari, S., Rahman, A., Pallichankandy, S., & Thayyullathil, F. (2017). However, this research is complex and is based on the observation that low levels of ROS may actually have protective effects, including antimicrobial activity. Individuals with acne have a higher concentration of skin surface lipids that when oxidized are highly comedogenic and antioxidants may prevent this oxidizing effect, thereby preventing comedogenesis. I believe in tried and true methodology and taking a scientific, modern take on long-held skin care practices. Evidence of topical vitamin C’s anti-inflammatory effects can be seen from its ability to reduce erythema caused by inflammation after sun exposure [8], and following laser resurfacing [9]. The oils and extracts themselves contribute to skin health because of their vitamin and mineral content, their fatty acid composition (for oils), and other factors that assist with maintaining the skin’s healthy balance. As mentioned earlier, inflammation is one of the main causes of acne and causes the body to elicit an immune response. Too much vitamin C actually causes acne flare-ups especially on serums. What is important to note is the term excess, and how this relates to vitamin C serums. Reactive oxygen species have a necessary function in the body that I was previously unaware of: they act as a natural anti-microbial agent. The cause of these breakouts are due to the fact that vitamin c brings dirt and oil that is in your skin’s pores to the surface, which can result in an acne breakout or two until the pores are completely cleared out. Are you looking to incorporate a vitamin C serum into your skincare routine but worried that it will break you out? The effects from it can range in severity from a simple skin irritation to a heart valve calcification. Concentrations of more than 20% offer no increase in effectiveness but may increase irritation and concentrations of less than 8% are too low to offer any significant antioxidant effects. Antioxidants, such as vitamin C, co-exist to protect the skin from free radicals, including reactive oxygen species (ROS), that are formed when skin is exposed to ultraviolet (UV) radiation. But this time the oil is inflammatory, and your skin has all the hallmarks of acne: redness, closed comedones etc. I believe that less is always more in skin care and that we shouldn’t go for quick fixes, fall for marketing hogwash, or bathe in pseudoscientific snake oil. Acne Diet Myths & Facts. Collagen production decreases as we naturally age and the rate at which it decreases is drastically enhanced when the skin experiences large and cumulative amounts of UV exposure. The Best Mineral Sunscreens With Antioxidants, other antioxidant serums have more evidence to back up their anti-acne effects, https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/14632206, https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5605218/#B3, https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/15304189/, https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/8543691/, https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0891584917300035, https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3171981/, https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1111/j.1524-4725.2005.31725, https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1111/j.1365-2133.1992.tb00122.x, https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/9537007, https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/jocd.12562, https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/20367669. What Should I Look For In A Vitamin C Serum? In addition, vitamin C serums seem to be more effective with the addition of vitamin E and ferulic acid. ‘Sodium L-ascorbyl-2-phosphate 5% lotion for the treatment of acne vulgaris: a randomized, double-blind, controlled trial’. This vitamin C serum is a cult-favorite for good reason. Basically, you may be considering introducing a vitamin C serum into your skincare routine if: But is vitamin C serum good for acne-prone skin or does vitamin c serum cause acne? Receive a complimentary Travel Set with your OUMERE purchase of $400 or more. Brescoll, J., & Daveluy, S. (2015). Vitamin C serum can and will act as a pro-oxidant, causing skin damage. Al-Niaimi, F. & Chiang, N. (2017). There is also research that suggests that when antioxidants are in excess in the body, this contributes to virulence and oxidative stress. Vitamin C is the most abundant antioxidant in the skin and is essential for the production of collagen. Most on the market contain the L-ascorbic form, which turns brown. Choosing a selection results in a full page refresh. In addition, facial erythema was reduced by 21% after 6 weeks of daily topical vitamin C application [10]. Their antioxidant effect destroys the healthy ROS created by the body to prevent bacterial infection. Furthermore, if ROS were found to have antimicrobial effects on the p-acnes bacteria, it is not known what amount of antioxidant would unbalance the ROS-Antioxidant equilibrium in order to affect this. As one of the main causes of acne is inflammation, it is highly likely that vitamin C serums can help improve the appearance of acne. The rapid multiplication of the p-acnes bacteria causes an inflammatory response. “Due to … Your skin has a delicate microbiome of healthy bacteria that maintains a proper balance necessary for a disease-free environment. The dead skin cells block the hair follicle and trap the oil inside. ‘A double-blind randomized trial of 5% ascorbic acid vs. 4% hydroquinone in melasma’. Then your body makes more oil in haste to replenish what was lost. The negative of ROS wasn’t interesting, what was interesting was a side buried in the introduction: The positive of ROS. Vitamin A does not cause acne, but too much of it actually can worsen some conditions. Concentrations of more than 20% offer no increase in effectiveness but may increase irritation and concentrations of less than 8% are too low to offer any significant antioxidant effects. As vitamin C is one of the most potent antioxidants and is essential for skin health, it is particularly highlighted as a potential anti-acne treatment. In fact, some research has demonstrated that topical vitamin C can reduce the number of acne lesions after 6 weeks of daily use. The authors of the aforementioned study identify two different mechanisms by which vitamin C may exert its effects on acne. Hormones cause the oil glands to overproduce oil. The vast majority of serums have a haphazard and dubious amount of the vitamin in the serum, formulated by no scientifically justifiable standards (the presence of vitamin C itself in a topical product to up-regulate collagen is not scientifically justified). Of the thousands and thousands of Vitamin C Serum bottles our company has sold, we have been contacted by a handful of customers that experienced breakouts when using the serum. It is a bottle whose exterior is cloaked in the trustworthy guise of science, and its contents a nostrum potion. So, the biggest vitamin C serum benefit for skin, then, is its potent antioxidant effects. No good tho. ROS is needed for normal, healthy function, from cell proliferation to keeping bacterial pathogen away. Here’s why Vitamin D supplements can cause acne: the first key reason is that Vitamin D stimulates testosterone, which is the primary hormone that aggravates hormonal acne. Woolery-Lloyd, H., Baumann, L. & Ikeno, H. (2010). By targeting inflammation, vitamin C may not prevent breakouts as there is no evidence to suggest that it reduces oil production or p-acnes proliferation. Are reactive oxygen species always detrimental to pathogens?. Beautycounter’s vitamin C serum is a blend of two ultra-stable forms of vitamin C. If you’re currently using a Vitamin C product, check to see what form of Vitamin C it contains. $80 at Sephora When too much ROS is produced, disease can occur. Is vitamin C good for acne-prone skin? So if you used a vitamin C serum and it gave you acne, redness or any other skin issue, it is because the serum took away your body’s ability to fight off bacteria, and weakened it, inviting pathogens to infect your skin. This can happen: Your vitamin C serum irritating skin and causing inflammation. Probably the most dramatic effect of taking a vitamin C supplement if you have acne is clearing up the redness in your skin. One of the main arguments leveled against vitamin C is that it acts as a pro-oxidant. It turns out that it may not be as simple as ROS = bad, Antioxidants = good. ‘Inhibitory effect of magnesium L-ascorbyl-2-phosphate (VC-PMG) on melanogenesis in vitro and in vivo’, Galadari, S., Rahman, A., Pallichankandy, S. & Thayyullathil, F (2017). The Benefits Of Snail Mucin In Skin Care. It helps to repair your skin and it also supports tissue … Overall, though, there is not enough evidence to support the claims that vitamin C serums can cause acne. Skin-Care Tips There is some evidence to suggest that using a vitamin C serum may make the skin more vulnerable to bacteria. However, it appears that ROS at high levels can have tumor-suppressing effects and can destroy cancer cells and antioxidants impede this process [5]. Vitamin C serums are one of those fad products that I hope will disappear with time, and I am certain that we will see adult acne disappear with it too. The microbiome in wound repair and tissue fibrosis. Keep in mind, if you have acne, applying Vitamin C to active breakouts can cause irritation. One research paper that I was to assess for the scholarship was the research of a MD/PhD student who was exploring reactive oxygen species (ROS) and how they are regulated by a certain protein. Vitamin C Serum is one of the most effective serums on the market because they provide several skin benefits that including treating acne and reducing acne scars. In addition to brightening your complexion, it gently exfoliates and sloughs off dead skin without causing irritation. ... the higher likelihood it may cause a problem for those with extremely problematic skin like myself. Related Reading: The Best Mineral Sunscreens With Antioxidants. It has been well researched in a mountain of studies that ROS can lead to cancer. However, I believe we should consider adding one more to the list of skin damaging agents. The cancer aspect of this paper was not interesting, nor was it novel. Vitamin C For Acne. Unfortunately, even with the correct application, sunscreens can only block 55% of the free radicals produced by UV exposure, Even with extremely high doses of vitamin C, only a small amount will be available to the skin. Acne is primarily an inflammatory skin condition characterized by blocked and inflamed hair follicles and oil glands which results in lesions. This is because there is some evidence to suggest that ROS have antimicrobial effects [6]. Chemosphere 67:44–50. Alster, T. & West, T. (1998). Zhang FQ, Wang YS, Lou ZP, JunDe Dong JD (2007) Effect of heavy metal stress on antioxidative enzymes and lipid peroxidation in leaves and roots of two mangrove plant seedlings (Kandelia candel and Bruguiera gymnorrhiza). Arguably the ‘holy grail’ of vitamin C serums is SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic. You want to help protect your skin against UV damage and enhance the protective effects of your sunscreen. Vitamin C serums are a product born of clever marketing, the misrepresentation of results, and profitable conflicts of interest. This means that topical antioxidants should be used in addition to sunscreens to provide protection against free radical damage. 2 Common Myths Busted! Yes and no. Or does vitamin C serum cause acne? A bacteria called p-acnes lives within the oil glands and use the oil as energy. This means that it can help prevent premature aging and skin cancers that are due to sun exposure (photoaging). The Mad Hippie Vitamin C Serum also contains the very effective vitamin C + vitamin E + ferulic acid combination at a fraction of the price of SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic. Journal of bacteriology, 191(14), 4605-4614. First and foremost, I hate to break it to any antioxidant fanatics out there, but the free radical theory of aging is not law in biology. (2013). When you use skin care formulated with beneficial oils and extracts, I do believe that there are benefits. When I wrote some time ago about how damaging vitamin C serums are to the skin, I received a mountain of responses of women and men telling me their stories of how vitamin C serums gave them acne and other skin diseases. All content, including, but not limited to, text, images, links, and other material does not constitute medical or other professional advice, and is not intended to be a substitute for professional medical advice. Vitamin C Serum. Their oxygenating effect creates ROS in the skin which breaks the skin down, creating inflammation, and leading increased susceptibility to pathogenic infection. American journal of clinical dermatology, 16(1), 27-33. My skin type is combination which is basically oily on the T-zone and dry on the rest of the face. The paper focused on how alterations in this protein can affect how much ROS is produced by the body, and when unregulated can lead to certain types of cancer. Free radicals cause changes to cellular DNA and proteins as well as causing inflammation. Altogether, this suggests that antioxidants may be an effective treatment for acne, both by reducing inflammation and by targeting ROS. A red flag for noticing if a product is actually irritating you and not just purging is if you're noticing pimples somewhere that you normally don't break out. The skin becomes stripped and imbalanced. As mentioned earlier, antioxidants help to protect the skin against free radical damage by neutralizing them. In vitamin C serums. And there is enough evidence to the contrary to support that the free radical theory is possibly an overgeneralization of how aging actually occurs, and that the aging process is much more complex than just: accumulation of ROS over time —> aging. When antioxidants are in oils and extracts, they are diluted and in low concentrations. Antioxidants & redox signaling, 20(6), 1000-1037. Hébrard, M., Viala, J. P., Méresse, S., Barras, F., & Aussel, L. (2009). As we mentioned in the introduction, ... As always, if you're using a topical treatment, such as a cream or a serum, it is important to perform a patch test before using it. Ever notice that vitamin … For example, a 5% concentration of a vitamin C derivative significantly improved the appearance of acne in the study mentioned earlier [11]. When used consistently, vitamin C serums can make scars as a result of acne less pronounced. But keep eating them because of their vitamin content, low calories, fiber and other qualities that more likely contribute to longevity other than their antioxidant content. The breakouts can happen due to the base of the Vitamin C serum. For this reason, topical application of cosmetics containing vitamin C, such as vitamin C serums, are required to maintain sufficient skin levels of vitamin C, Topical vitamin C formulations have also been shown to be as effective as topical hydroquinone therapy at reducing hyperpigmentation. Many will ask, is Vitamin C serum good for acne, the answer to which is, well, it depends. In addition, vitamin C can improve facial erythema which is often a concern in acne and post inflammatory erythema. Maybe not now, but certainly over time. Laura is currently working in healthcare education and writes for ScienceBecomesHer in her spare time. MBio, 2(5). ‘Effect of topical vitamin C on postoperative carbon dioxide laser resurfacing erythema’. Vitamin D supplements cause hormonal acne in almost everyone who is acne-prone, and even in those who weren’t previously struggling with acne. This means that instead of neutralizing free radicals, it will act as a free radical itself and begin to damage skin cells. Planta (2010) 231: 461. https://doi.org/10.1007/s00425-009-1067-3. That means exfoliation, light and natural serums, and gentle cleansing. However, like anything, too much of something can be unhealthy. I know this cause I made such serum, like above 20% of net weight, when I applied it upon my facial skin, the little tiny acne popped up in just one night, I wondered why, apparently that's cause of the vitamin c powder I dilluted in the serum mix. However, L-ascorbic acid is unstable and has limited penetration. One way of achieving this is to reduce the acidity of L-ascorbic acid to a pH of less than 3.5 [2]. Let’s explore the research behind vitamin C serums in order to answer these questions. No, vitamin C serums cannot cause acne. Because, no matter how good it’s for anti-aging, you don’t want to replace wrinkles with pimples… Here’s what we know. Notify me of follow-up comments by email. But does Vitamin C cause acne? Skincare (like everything else in life) is NOT black and white. This is something I have done for two years, and it is an excellent opportunity, not just to provide funding for great research, but to learn of what new biological research is being conducted. However, one study found that the topical application of 5% sodium-L-ascorbyl-2-phosphate, a vitamin C derivative, over 12 weeks reduced the number of acne lesions in 61-71% of subjects (observer ratings vs subject ratings) [11]. A review of vitamin B12 in dermatology. This ROS-Antioxidant balance also has implications for acne-prone skin. You can also obtain vitamin C through a supplement. However, this research is very limited and it is not known whether the p-acnes bacteria is affected by ROS-antimicrobial activity (research seems to be focussed on the Salmonella enterica bacteria). Source: Galadari, S., Rahman, A., Pallichankandy, S., & Thayyullathil, F. (2017). Laura is a skincare addict and sunscreen enthusiast with more than 10 years of experience working in healthcare and over 5 years of experience working as a nurse. Free Radical Biology and Medicine, 104, 144-164. ‘Topical vitamin C and the skin: mechanisms of action and clinical applications’. Reactive oxygen species and cancer paradox: to promote or to suppress?. Redness is partially the result of inflammation. Vitamin C serums are acidic, which means they slough away dead cells from the skins surface leaving it brighter and smoother. Source: Zhang FQ, Wang YS, Lou ZP, JunDe Dong JD (2007). These changes result in the destruction of collagen and elastin and can potentially cause skin cancer. The killing of healthy ROS and creating unhealthy ROS reminds me of when people use scrubs, face brushes and/or harsh cleansers on their skin and get acne as a result: You scrub off the healthy, balanced oil that your skin produced. It is formulated with gentle ingredients that will be … Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate Product Recommendations: Mad Hippie Vitamin C Serum, Viola Vitamin C Serum. ‘Evaluation of selected skin parameters following the application of 5% vitamin C concentrate’. OUMERE Skin Care is not intended to diagnose, cure or treat any ailment. (1996). Even with extremely high doses of vitamin C, only a small amount will be available to the skin. It is unlikely that vitamin C serums will cause acne.